Yes, you can add ReptiFauna™ plants to any reptile, amphibian, or terrestrial invertebrate habitat.
No, the plants will thrive under standard terrarium, vivarium, or paludarium lighting. Additional plant lighting can be added based on the plants lighting requirements if desired, but is not required. If you’re unsure if it’s safe to add supplemental lighting, refer to the care information on the plant stake or the care guides through the QR code.
Each plant may differ in watering needs. Please refer to the care information on the plant stake or the care guides through the QR code for water instructions for each plant.
All planting and care information is available here on the ReptiFauna™ brand website which you can access by scanning the QR code on the back of any ReptiFauna™ plant stake.
ReptiFauna™ isopods and springtails will help breakdown waste and nutrients into a more usable form for plants helping them grow bigger and brighter.
ReptiFauna™ plants are broken into two categories, desert and tropical. The care information on the plant tags and the care guides through the QR code will help you understand the individual care requirements of each plant.
While not required, regular trimming or pruning can help keep your plants healthy, lush, and full. You can refer to the care guides through the QR code for more information on how to trim each type of plant.
ReptiFauna™ plants are sold with simplicity in mind. With that mindset, many of the plants are sold under the type of plant rather than the individual specific variety. This allows enthusiasts like you to enjoy multiple varieties of the same type of plant at the same low cost and with the same care information.
Isopods will eat reptile and amphibian waste as well as decaying plant matter, wood, or excess food.
By breaking down waste, isopods provide a natural source of fertilization for live plants.
Isopods remove waste that contributes to foul odors from terrariums and vivariums.
Tunnels created by isopods help keep substrate aerated and healthy.
Isopods are a natural predator to common terrarium and vivarium pest eggs such as mite eggs.
Occasional predation on isopods provides additional dietary variety for your animals.
With live plants you can create a natural ecosystem which aids in humidity control, animal comfort, and overall habitat cleanliness.
Live plants utilize waste from animals as a natural fertilizer which not only helps the plants grow, but also helps cut down on foul odors.
Isopods will use plants for both natural cover and they will help breakdown dead leaves as part of their natural diet.
ReptiFauna™ live plants are selected and grown for simple, easy care, but for all plants, you have access to care guides, inspirational resources, and success tools right at your fingertips.
Animals naturally rely on plants in multiple ways; in your habitat your animal will enjoy drinking water off the leaves, the natural cover, and the realistic ecosystem created by live plants.
Adding live plants opens up a wide range of possibilities to add color, life, and beauty to your habitat.
Bioactive habitats help create habitat balance and stability by utilizing natural processes.
Naturally balanced habitats can help reduce stress and often result in your animal displaying more natural behaviors.
Bioactive habitats include isopods, which come in a variety of colors and are interesting to observe.
In a bioactive habitat, springtails help consume and reduce unwanted soil dwelling organics such molds, and fungus and even gnat fly eggs.
Animals naturally rely on plants in multiple ways; in your habitat your animal will enjoy drinking water off the leaves, the natural cover, and the realistic ecosystem created by live plants.
Adding live plants opens up a wide range of possibilities to add color, life, and beauty to your habitat.
HydrOasis™ leaves and pods can be used directly from the package and may be added to any aquatic habitat. For unfiltered systems, it is recommended to pre-soak pods prior to adding them to the tank to allow the pods to shed the initial layer of organics that is normally processed by a filtration system.
All instructional and inspirational information is available on the HydrOasis™ website which you can access by scanning the QR code on the back of any HydrOasis™ package.
HydrOasis™ leaves and pods can be added to any aquatic habitat regardless of substrate, décor, and water source. For inspirational ideas, scan the QR code on the back of the package.
HydrOasis™ leaves and pods are safe to use right out of the package. For unfiltered systems, it is recommended to pre-soak pods prior to adding them to the tank to allow the pods to shed the initial layer of organics that is normally processed by a filtration system.
Yes, HydrOasis™ leaves and pods are safe to use with any aquatic animal.
HydrOasis™ leaves and pods naturally release beneficial tannins as they break down, which may tint your water. This is a natural process and may also lower the pH. If pH levels drop, follow standard protocols for safely increasing pH to desired levels. If you want to have some of the benefits of having the leaves and pods in your tank without the tint, you can use an absorbent filter resin, carbon, or small water changes.
Broken down leaves and pods can be left to dissolve completely or can be removed with a net or with a siphon.
Leaves and pods can lower pH. It is a good idea to test pH to maintain the desired target pH level. If pH levels drop, follow standard protocols for safely increasing pH to desired levels.
Leaves can be added in any amount but the more that are added, the more they may alter pH. When using leaves, it is recommended to test your water regularly and to follow standard protocols for safely increasing pH to desired levels.
HydrOasis™ leaves and pods are animal safe and will not harm animals if they are consumed.
Leaves and pods can be added at any point. If there are existing remnants of leaves added prior, you can either choose to remove them, or simply add the new ones on top. As additional leaves and pods can reduce your pH, it is always a good idea to test the water prior to ensure that you are still within the desired target level.
Although the HydrOasis™ leaves are safe to use directly out of the package, they may take a few days to sink naturally. If you wish to speed up the sinking process, leaves and pods can be submerged in hot water or boiled until slightly softened in dechlorinated water. Strain and cool the leaves completely before adding them to your aquarium.
As the leaves and pods begin to break down, a small, film, called biofilm, will begin to grow. This naturally occurring film is safe and a great food source for your animals and will go away when your animals consume it.
The leaves and pods will last several weeks in an aquarium. Due to their unique shape and structure, some types of leaves and pods may last longer than others.
It’s not you, it’s your plants and it’s time to break up with what you’ve done in the past. HydrOasis™ live plants are grown different than normal aquarium plants. Most aquarium plants are grown in a way that means there is a period where you put the plant in your tank and it either dies or loses all its leaves and comes back as a fraction of what it was when you fell in love with it at the pet store. HydrOasis™ live plants are grown in systems that mirror your aquarium at home making the transition from nursery to your home aquarium as simple and stress free as possible. It’s more difficult and labor intensive to grow plants this way which is why it’s uncommon to see plants grown this way, but we give the growers extra snacks and nap time every day to help offset these challenges.
THE WORLD IS ENDING. Kidding. Hopefully. Yellow leaves can mean a variety of things when it comes to aquatic plants, but almost always, the plant is going to be perfectly fine. If they’re plants you have just received or just added to your aquarium, it’s entirely possible that these leaves yellowed as a response to transport and it’s entirely normal. If they’re plants you’ve had for a while, it could be due to a nutrient deficiency or lighting issue, see this graphic to help troubleshoot:
It is best to remove the plant from both the pot and the soft, spongy material as these are intended to aid in propagation and transport. This will allow your plants to fully root and establish in your substrate.
Generally, yes, you should plant your plants fully to the base of the plant with all roots under the substrate. When planting plants like swords and crypts, make sure you do not cover the crown of the plant (the base of the plant where the leaves come out from).
Loose stems can be caused by a couple of different issues from simply not establishing in substrate to a fish or invertebrate uprooting it. The best course of action is always to replant the plants as soon as you seem them loose. To remedy the issue moving forward, make sure the plant is secure in the substrate and that you don’t have any rogue critters pulling up plants when you’re not looking.
The answer to this question is almost always no. Most of the time when you see a fish “biting” at or on a plant leaf, it’s eating microorganisms or algae off of the plant. It’s possible that in this process a leaf or two will get damaged, but it’s usually minor damage that the plant will recover from quickly and easily. However, there are some species of fish that will actively eat plants such as goldfish, silver dollars, African cichlids, and Buenos Aires tetras.
We take every effort to ensure that the plants you receive are snail and algae free while providing a quality, healthy plant. In the grow out process we use primarily biological controls to prevent snails and algae on our plants. However, because HydrOasis plants are grown in a fully aquatic ecosystem to help transition to your aquarium and not a sterile environment, it’s entirely possible that our preventative measures miss a snail or algae spore. If you find that you have a snail or algae on any plant, here are some great plant safe fish and invertebrates that can help rid you of any pest;
Aquatic Animal | Tank Size | Type |
---|---|---|
Amano Shrimp | Nano tanks and up | Community |
Bristlenose Plecostomus | 29 gallons and up | Community |
Cherry Shrimp | Nano tanks and up | Community |
Farlowella Catfish | 40 gallons and up | Community |
Hillstream Loach | 29 gallons and up | Community |
Mollies | 10 gallons and up | Community |
Nerite Snail | Nano tanks and up | Community |
Otocinclus Catfish | Nano tanks and up | Community |
Siamese Algae Eater | 29 gallons and up | Community |
Aquatic Animal | Tank Size | Type |
---|---|---|
Angelicus Botia | 40 gallons and up | Community |
Assassin Snail | Nano tanks and up | Community |
Clown Loach | 75 gallons and up | Semi-Aggressive |
Sidthimunki Botia Loach | Nano tanks and up | Community |
Striata Botia Loach | 29 gallons and up | Community |
Striped Raphael Catfish | 55 gallons and up | Community |
Skunk Botia Loach | 20 gallons and up | Commnity |
Yo-Yo Loach | 40 gallons and up | Community |
The single most important thing to do if you see a plant that you think might be stressed is to not panic. The plant may already be stressed enough for the both of you, no need to add any of your own stress to it. In almost every scenario when you see a plant that you may think is stressed, it’s completely (and usually easily) solvable. Use the guide on page 1 to help troubleshoot and resolve any issues you may see.
THE WORLD IS ENDING. Kidding. Hopefully. Yellow leaves can mean a variety of things when it comes to aquatic plants, but almost always, the plant is going to be perfectly fine. If they’re plants you have just received or just added to your aquarium, it’s entirely possible that these leaves yellowed as a response to transport and it’s entirely normal. If they’re plants you’ve had for a while, it could be due to a nutrient deficiency or lighting issue, see this graphic to help troubleshoot:
The single most important thing to do if you see a plant that you think might be stressed is to not panic. The plant may already be stressed enough for the both of you, no need to add any of your own stress to it. In almost every scenario when you see a plant that you may think is stressed, it’s completely (and usually easily) solvable. Use the guide on page 1 to help troubleshoot and resolve any issues you may see.
It is best to remove the plant from the pot that comes with the plant, that’s just there to keep the plant comfortable during transport. Once you have your plant at home, remove that plastic pot and plant your new plant either directly into the substrate on the banks of your pond or in a larger clay or plastic pot that you can add your favorite pond-safe plant substrate to and submerge just below the pond’s surface.
Simply plant the base of the lily at an angle in the pond substrate with any offshoots or lilies facing towards the surface. If you do not have substrate in your pond, using a water safe pot such as plastic or clay can be filled with your choice of substrate and sunk into the pond.
If you have koi in your pond, the answer is probably yes. Koi are known to enjoy the occasional lily snack. However, there are a couple options to help keep your koi from treating your plants like an all you can eat buffet:
• Keep your koi well fed on a high quality koi diet. Koi that are well-fed and are getting the necessary nutritional balance in their diet are less likely to mow down your plants.
• Protect your plants with koi cages or rock stacks. A simple PVC and plastic barricade between your plants and the koi are a simple solution with the added bonus of giving your husband a task to keep him busy while you have some much needed me time. Alternatively and for those who say PVC ruins the aesthetic, you can build up large rocks around the base of a lily or marginal plant that will make it more challenging for the koi to get to the plants for a quick snack.
• Either overload your pond with so many plants that your koi couldn’t possibly eat them all or simply provide extra space in your pond so that your koi are physically around the plants less often
In general, pond plants are some of the lowest maintenance plants around. It’s a good idea to have a regular fertilizer regiment appropriate for your pond size and climate and fortunately there are a wide number of commercial fish-safe pond fertilizers available. Simply search “pond plant fertilizer” or “pond plant food” and you’ll fine multiple options available. Otherwise, with lilies pull dead lily pads a couple times per season helps keep water clear and trimming your marginal plants to your desired sizes is all that is needed.